Guimaraes - Capital of Culture 2012
In the far north of Portugal the city of Guimaraes is regarded as the cornerstone of the nation’s foundation. Travel writer Brendan Harding visits the city during its term as co-host of European Capital of Culture for 2012.
Guimares Castle and the foundation place of the Portuguese nation
From the tenth-floor window of my hotel room I can a tree. It is standing alone on the summit of a gently rounded hill cultivated with stepped terraces of gnarled and presently sleeping vines.
The neighbouring hills are thickly forested with oak, pine and eucalyptus; a hundred shades of green beneath an empty Spring sky of antique blue. The forests run headlong towards the valley, until their rush is tempered and halted by the first red-roofed houses; which in turn, take up the baton and continue the sweeping descent to the ancient city below.
The city in the valley is Guimaraes – co-host of Europe’s City of Culture for 2012 - a special place, cradled in the folds of a rolling countryside in Portugal’s far north; a land of history and culture, open doors and warm welcomes, homely cooking and the famed wines of the Douro valley. A city whose walls proudly proclaim the slogan ‘Aqui Nacoes Portugal’ – Portugal was born here.
The city has its origins in the 10th century when the noblewoman Countess Mumadona Dias ordered the construction of a monastery on the site. To defend the monastery the Countess requested a castle to be built nearby. In time settlements were established in the protective shadow of the castle’s battlements and a link was created between the places of worship and succour – the Rua de Santa Maria which still exists today and houses some of the city’s iconic buildings; the Convent of St. Clare, the Casa do Arco, the Casa dos Peixotos and the Casa dos Valadares.
Although a city of immense history Guimaraes is far from being an open-air museum dedicated to the preservation of historic buildings and monuments. Guimaraes is alive and vibrant, entertaining and educational, cultural and commercial and constantly renewing and improving the quality of life for its inhabitants and visitors.
It has taken over thirty-five years of concentrated effort to lovingly restore the ancient heart of the city - for most towns the work would finish here, happy in the knowledge of a job well done. But Guimaraes refuses to sit on its laurels and the city’s rejuvenation has spread outward. Along every street and square which surround the city’s bejewelled centre the work continues. Famed for its history as a centre for leather production huge granite tanning tanks, fed by the waters rushing from the surrounding hills, are now being restored and integrated into the aesthetic appeal of the place. Houses which have been fully restored by master craftspeople (and whose work is now in much demand at home and abroad) stand next to those who await their turn to shine again.
Wearing the badge of European City of Culture there is a palpable sense of pride among the inhabitants. In every shop window the owners display the city’s logo, a stylised heart, which each retailer has bizarrely decorated with their wares, accompanied by the city’s battle cry, ‘Eu Faco Parte’ – You Are Part. I witnessed this ‘being part’ of something as I watched neighbours gather every small piece of litter snagged in the bushes lining one of the city’s many rushing streams, or as I saw fresh flowers being arranged around one of the antique, wooden-carved, life-sized ‘stations of the cross’ which dot the town. A group of pre-school children marched in line, under the proud gaze of their teachers and locals alike, towards the gates of the Palace of the Dukes of Braganca holding hands in a snaking line and chanting over and over again the words ‘Viva Guimaraes!’
The city’s inhabitants know that their home is special among the cities and towns of Portugal and it is they who will keep it special. In restaurants, coffee shops, bars and hotels the owners and staff identified me as a tourist and went out of their way to explain a little of the history of their special place. In one such small restaurant, as the owner served me a local delicacy, the ‘Francesinha’ – a sandwich of bread, wet-cured ham, fresh sausage, roast meat, doused with melted cheese and a hot tomato and beer sauce served with French fries – without prompting she gave me the long family history of the place, illustrating its place in the city’s history through the visitor’s book filled with the comments and signatures of many famous guests. She was proud of her place in the history of the community as well as its place in the future.
Before I left the restaurant I asked about the single tree standing sentinel on the hilltop above the town. “It is a love story”, she replied gazing towards the hill, “it is a memory of two people who promised their love to each other many years ago. And now the family who own the farm will not allow it to be cut down. It is a part of their history and their family’s history.” I thought I could see moistness in her eyes, but I may have been mistaken.
On the station platform as I waited to board my train towards Porto and away from this enchanting city, the tree on the hill again caught my attention. When Guimaraes’ time in the spotlight as European City of Culture is done and the place seeks new inspiration, the city could do worse than look towards that single, lonely tree which constantly keeps watch over the city and its people, as a reminder of its past, present and future.
GETTING THERE:
RYANAIR fly direct to Porto twice weekly on Tuesday and Friday
STAYING THERE:
Hotel Fundador, Guimaraes – www.hotelfundador.com
Hotel de Guimaraes, Guimaraes – www.hotel-guimaraes.com
GUIMARAES TOURISM:
Guimaraes Tourist Office – www.guimaraestourismo.com
European Capital of Culture, Guimaraes – www.guimaraes2012.pt
GETTING TO GUIMARAES FROM PORTO AIRPORT:
Arrive Porto Airport
Turn right out of arrivals (don’t leave terminal)
Take lift to Metro level
Cross over to Metro – 100m
Purchase ticket from machine to Campanha station - €3.50 – journey time to Campanha 30minutes
Leave Campanha Metro station and walk 100m to ‘Porta’ – Train Station
Buy ticket to Guimaraes €3 – Trains leave every hour
Journey time from Campanha to Guimaraes 1hour 10minutes