Copenhagen - Europe's time-machine
It’s nice to know that I have something in common with stars like Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Errol Flynn. Nice indeed, but what? They were famous; I’m not. They were wealthy; church mice look upon me with pity. They were fine athletes; whereas, the only thing I know about barbells is when looking for the attention of a missing barman. So what is it?
The answer lies in a majestic building; a building with the looks of a silent-screen beauty and the aesthetic lines of an Art Nouveau sculpture: Copenhagen’s Palace Hotel.
At some point or another in our lives we have each had the pleasure of donning the bathrobes of this elegant establishment, or peering from its great windows onto the busy Radhuspladsen as the citizens of Denmark’s first city scurry about their business. The Palace is imbued with a feeling of belle-époque elegance, gentility and the same sense of style and attention to detail which Copenhagen holds in spades.
As the first five star hotel in the Nordic area The Palace possesses the same architectural elegance which causes visiting tourists on the main shopping street, Stroget, to look upwards instead of peering covetously at the stylish contents of the shop windows. Along this historic pedestrian thoroughfare Copenhagen oozes style, both historic and modern.
In a city surrounded by water, one of the best ways to view Copenhagen’s own brand of style is from the water, and a canal boat tour, taken from Nyhaven, provides the perfect viewing platform.
Passing under low bridges into the open harbour the city opens up in all its splendour. The spiralling tower of Vor Frelsers Kirke (Church of Our Saviour) on one side offers a contrast to the modern façade of the Playhouse, the home of the royal Danish theatre, which looms on the opposite bank like a marine behemoth.
As the rain begins to spit down the American woman opposite me chanced a question, “Do you think we’ll get to the see the Little Mermaid?” I assured her we would. She smiled so brightly that I hadn’t the heart to tell her the statue was a great deal smaller than most people imagine.
The boat passed the Opera House, the old torpedo boat factory, past affluent canal-side homes, art cafes and galleries. The guide was busy calling the names of famous buildings, both modern and antique, side by side as the American watched the horizon with bated breath.
We passed the navy base, the school of architecture, the school of dance, the naval officers’ academy and a dry-docked submarine. A giant crane rose from the quayside and tore at the underbelly of the passing clouds. “For the adventurous,” the guide announced, “you may even bungee-jump from this crane in summer.” The American lady didn’t even notice; her eyes fixed firmly on the water.
“And now we will be stopping here,” the guide said, “to allow those who wish to see the statue of the Little Mermaid disembark and spend some time.” The American lady’s face glowed with delight. “Oh my gosh!” she fussed, gathering her belongings and left.
The tour continued until I had seen the whole city from the water; past the naval battery, the Royal Pavilion, the Royal Palace and the gleaming black monolithic structure of the city library, ancient and modern hand in hand. But as I’ve said, Copenhagen is a city of the past, the present and the future.
I disembarked and wandered the streets, content with viewing the city’s sights from the outside. Time was short and a taste was all I required. Down the backstreets and alleyways of the old town the city’s charm resonates with life. Coffee shops full with smart, youn, people. Designer retailers dressed their windows with hand-crafted goods; woollens, hand-made toys, confectionery, silverware; a cornucopia for the senses. But unlike other cities, Copenhagen’s streets are alive with the people who live here; in the city’s beating heart.
As darkness claimed the streets I had an appointment to keep. On Longangstraede I entered the doorway of an ancient building lit with a single neon sign - Mojo Blues Bar. The band was already on stage and the crowd were already swaying to an upbeat groove. It took me a minute to realise but the air was fogged with cigarette smoke. Here, where people live healthy, action-packed lives, cigarettes? I asked the barman how come it was OK to smoke. “Hey,” he answered, “it’s a blues bar!” as if that answered everything.
But that’s Copenhagen’s way of doing things. Everything is about style and if a blues bar demands whirls of rising smoke, then, whirls of rising smoke is what it gets.
Fortified
by too many Tuborgs I Errol Flynned my way back to the hotel. In the lobby I
met my American; poring over a map, taking notes for tomorrow. “Hi,” I said,
“did you get to see your Little Mermaid?” I expected disappointment. “Oh, it
was marvellous,” she enthused. I waited a moment. “Didn’t you find it… just a
bit… small?” “Oh no,” she replied, “I was here many years ago with my late husband.
It was our honeymoon.” For a moment she seemed far away. “So you weren’t
disappointed?” I asked. The woman smiled again, “Gosh no,” she said. “I loved
it so much I’m going to take our daughter and her kids next time. Her father
loved it so much…” she said quietly and disappeared up the winding stairs. But
that’s Copenhagen for you, a place where the past, present and
future all meet.
Getting There:
SAS Airways
– www.flysas.com
What to do in
Copenhagen:
Copenhagen – www.visitcopenhagen.com
Copenhagen Card:
Copenhagen Card (Free entry to 65 attractions. Free transport by train, bus and Metro in the entire Copenhagen Region, plus from/to the airport. Discounts on restaurants, car-hire, shops and sights) - http://www.visitcopenhagen.com/book-your-stay/copenhagen-card#order
Staying There:
Palace Hotel
- http://palacehotelcopenhagen.com/
Eating There:
Kodbyens Fiskebar
– www.fiskebaren.dk/en/