Let's Gdansk!
Once again travel writer Brendan Harding donned the green jersey and set forth to discover what Poland has to offer Irish football fans and tourists in its charming cities and unspoiled countryside.
Brendan Harding flying the flag at Ireland’s Euro 2012 training ground in Gdynia near Gdansk.
Daniel Fahrenheit – a man who knew a thing or two about the temperature of things – was born in the Polish city of Gdansk. If he were to visit his birthplace early next June, for the start of the European football championships, and more importantly, the arrival of the Green Army, he would have to revise his scientific findings as the heat is most definitely going to rise to levels beyond anything he had ever known.
On June 14th, in Gdansk's spectacular, new, golden-domed stadium, Ireland will face the world and European champions, Spain, in a match whose result, many sceptics believe, has already been decided. But, as we know so well from past experience, miracles can and do happen – remember Stuttgart? Remember Giant's Stadium?
In the city by the sea where the spires of so many churches and cathedrals reach high into the clear Baltic sky – including St. Mary's Cathedral, the largest in all of Poland – a miracle should not be ruled out. In fact, within the bowels of the gleaming new stadium, whose acoustics have yet to be tested to their limits by the collective prayers of the Irish faithful, and only metres from what will be Trapatonni's ante-room; a small chapel (St. Paul Apostle) has been provided for quiet reflection. A place, where I for one, knelt and said a small wishful prayer. However, for the creature comforts of fans and tourists alike visiting Gdansk prayers are something which will not be necessary.
The city of Gdansk, like most Polish cities, has a long and
varied history. As a major port and centre of commerce the differing epochs of
history are still visible in the cities ancient buildings, fortifications and
places of worship. But despite its age the city has a sense of the modern and
bursts with life.
Visitors will spend long evenings (and mornings) wandering from restaurant to bar to night club in the narrow back streets which traverse the city. Or nursing their morning-after afflictions in the coffee houses of the many beautiful squares. And despite what is generally believed, prices in the region are set to remain low. Accommodation is the only real area of concern for most fans I spoke with. With some prices being quoted up to four times higher than normal, there is concern that this may be a stumbling block in fans' decisions to come. But, having walked the city streets and knocked on many doors I can deliver the good news; accommodation is plentiful; not beyond the means of most fans, and to very modern standards. The down side is that this accommodation is likely to be outside of the main town centre of Gdansk and closer to the training pitch at Gdynia and the team hotel in Sopot.
Like a holy trinity of cities; Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia will become home for the Irish team and their entourage throughout the group stages of the competition. In Sopot, a seaside town which harks back to the days when wealthy German tourists came here to take the healing waters, the Irish team will have their base in the five-star Sheraton Hotel. To the rear of the hotel a long beach of powder-fine sand will make for an ideal early-morning run, or a place to clear the mind and prepare for things to come. Walking the city's wooden pier, the longest in Europe, I imagined Dunne, Given, Duff and Keane sharing their thoughts on their prospects. On the still Baltic air I sensed their excitement and anticipation of what may be their biggest game of the tournament.
At Gdynia's superb stadium, Ireland's training ground and home to Polish premier league team Arka Gdynia, there can be no worries about "a surface like a car park". In fact the opposite. Despite a long telling season of Polish football, the playing surface is maintained like a carpet of green and luxurious velvet, just waiting for our heroes' arrival.
But it is at the golden-domed Stadium in the
Pomeranian capital, Gdansk, where the attention of Irish people everywhere will be focused and
the voices of the Irish fans will truly rise to the heavens. In a city known
worldwide for raising its voice – this is the home of Lech Walesa and the
birthplace of Solidarnosc (Solidarity), the Soviet Bloc's first independent
trade union – the Irish fans will justifiably feel at home and welcome.
Arriving in their thousands, on the newly upgraded transport systems, the sight of this 'Amber Stadium' will set Irish hearts beating in awe. In the late evening light of a Baltic summer (don't let the word Baltic fool you, it will be hot), as the light reflects on the stadium's impressive roof design, more prayers will be delivered up in the hope that the sight before them will be one they can someday tell their grandchildren about.
Don't let anyone put you off the chance to experience what I believe will be a golden age for sport and international bonding. Negativity is easy. I have witnessed so many positives, space won't allow me to mention them all. But you can be sure of one thing, the Tricity region around Gdansk is full to bursting with wonders to explore, sights to see, new tastes to sample and new friends to meet. So be warned, Gdansk is waiting and the heat is about to rise.
GETTING THERE:
Ryanair fly direct from Dublin and Cork to Gdansk Lech Walesa Airport (flying time approx. 2 hours 35 minutes) - www.ryanair.ie
STAYING THERE GDANSK/SOPOT/GDYNIA:
Official Host City Page - www.uefaeuro2012.gdanskk.pl/en/noclegi,8.html
EATING THERE GDANSK/SOPOT/GDYNIA:
Official Host City Page - www.uefaeuro2012.gdanskk.pl/en/gastronomia,9.html
TRANSPORT GDANSK/SOPOT/GDYNIA:
Official Host City Page - www.uefaeuro2012.gdanskk.pl/en/transport,7.html
INFORMATION ON ATTRACTIONS GDANSK/SOPOT/GDYNIA
Official Host City Page - www.uefaeuro2012.gdanskk.pl/en/turystyka,10.html